Photographer's Rights

This is not a comprehensive discussion, the subject is too wide, but he subject keeps appearing in the news and on professional camera forums like Nikonians.org so I thought I would post links to various sites that have information and then make my own comments on them. Before we get started, it must be noted that there is no case that has gone through the judicial system that applies at a federal level to all people. The matter of fact is that the digital life has progressed faster than the laws have and most laws at a local level are reactions to local events or reactions to the infamous "I heard about it on the Internet".Also, I am not a lawyer and nothing here should be taken as legal advice. These are merely references and comments on those references.

  Also, Being "in the Right" doesn't mean taking the photo is the right thing to do. Generally speaking, if somebody asks a photographer to not take a photo, they don't (wives and kids excepted - grins). Generally, even if a permission to use form or release was signed, if the person asks for a photo to be removed from a site, any good professional photographer will remove the photo.

Also be aware that the right to take a photo does NOT mean you have the right to use the photo. I am currently working on a book and every photo I have taken has a release or permit to use form for it. For any photos taken with a view to using them in the book, if I can't get a signature, I don't take the photo. One older gentleman (95) looked me in the eye and asked, "Isn't my word good enough for you?" I told it sure was but the people I wold be working with wouldn't take my word. It has been problematic at times on that project as most of the property owners are older and lived in an age where a handshake was your word and that was all you needed, legal documents and contracts are seen with a degree of distrust. Generally, you don not have to have a release form for photos to be used for news and commentary purposes.

1) http://www.krages.com/phoright.htm  An excellent reference with a downloadable document. This is one of the most widely known and cited references. Every photographer should have a printed copy of this in their camera kit. Take note of the restriction "You may distribute the guide to others, provided that such distribution is not done for commercial gain and credit is given to the author" The author is Bert Krages II. Also, note that he is a lawyer from Oregon and as noted above, what he says does not necessarily apply everywhere. There are no national precedents yet that I can find.

2)  http://content.photojojo.com/tips/legal-rights-of-photographers/   Comments: Commandment 2 - Remember that being able to take the picture doesn't mean you can print it or publish it. You may be able to take a photo of a man cutting his grass but that does not mean you can use it without his permission in a book on"Men cutting their Grass". // Commandment 5 - This can be subjective. Exercise caution. // Commandment 8 - You may not have to explain what you are doing but it sure looks odd if you don't. I will discuss this further with a news story. I highly recommend explaining what you are doing in a courteous manner. An attitude will get you nowhere fast.

3) Andrew Kantor  http://www.usatoday.com/tech/columnist/andrewkantor/2005-12-29-camera-laws_x.htm  Comment - An excellent article with many valuable links. Check them out. (http://www.rcfp.org/pullouts/photographers/index.php)

4) http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=4705698

NOW - WHY ALL THESE RIGHTS HAE TO BE TAKEN WITH A GRAIN OF SALT so to speak.

The following are news stories concerning photographers and the issues they have run into. They may not have the right to take your camera and you may be reluctant to let some rent-a-cop take your photo kit worth several thousands of dollars (sit down some day and add up what you have spent it may surprise you.)

A) New York Times Oct 18, 2010 http://lens.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/10/18/you-can-photograph-that-federal-building/?ref=todayspaper  Unfortunately, it didn't go through the courts to make a precedence, it only resulted in a settlement.

B)  Copy of the Settlement  http://www.scribd.com/full/39623305?access_key=key-21nlcq8q54dwdoa8ofbr

C) New York Times http://lens.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/01/27/see-officer-i-can-too-take-that-picture/


 NOW A POST THAT ERRONEOUS REPORTED A MAN ARRESTED FOR TAKING A PHOTOGRAPH

D) http://www.wsvn.com/news/articles/local/21003309015872/#?hpt=T2    Comment - First he was taking photos in a sensitive area of the airport including restricted areas. You can't do that! Next, he remained silent when questioned. See my comments about about not having to explain what you are doing. Silence here is dumb. Explain courteously. Also, he acted suspiciously and became evasive. A big no-no. My comment? This guy deserved what he got. I would have arrested him if I was law enforcement. He didn't get arrested for taking a photo, he was arrested for acting suspiciously and refusing to answer questions.

E)  Banned for Life From Miami Metro http://verystretchy.com/blog/2010.07.01/banned-from-metro/ Comment: He had permission from the Chief of Safety and Security but the workers didn't want to hear or read it. Watch the videos. Quote from the Chief of Security, "He explained that while commercial photography on Metrorail property is prohibited without a permit, there is no such prohibition against photography that is personal, journalistic, or, in his words, “Johnny Tourist” photography. When I asked him how his officers distinguish between commercial photography and personal photography, he said, “If you tell us that you’re not using the pictures for commercial work and they’re (for) personal use, at that point in time the security officers, and/or the MDT representative should feel that his question is answered and at that point you’re free to take pictures until the next train comes or whatever.”Shame that isn't what happened.

F)  Miami-Dad Metrorail Update  http://stretchphotography.com/blog/2010.11.20/metrorail-update/#more-399

G)  National Press Photographers Association http://nppa.org/news_and_events/news/2010/07/miami.html

H) New York Clarifies Guidlelines http://www.nikonians.org/forums/dcboard.php?az=set_threaded_mode&forum=190&topic_id=62216&prev_page=show_topic&gid=62216#62311

I) Story from a friend on professional photography forum - "I just got lit upon by a police officer and a bailiff in Raleigh, NC, last week for taking photos of the Wake County Courthouse. It seems that it was a suspicious act on my part! These people actually saw me taking photos outside the building while they were inside. They came running out of the courthouse to confront me. The cop made me delete the photos I took. Fortunately, she didn't know that I had taken others from a different angle, and I kept them (and am posting one now because I guess I am rebel). When she asked me what I was doing and why, I said, "Taking pictures. Because I want to."It seems that wasn't the proper response. But, to be fair to her, she did have a sense of humor. When I asked if I could take a photo of the Federal Building, she said that she wouldn't--she said they have snipers posted on the roof, just waiting for photographers. I THINK she was kidding."

Here is my shot of the NC State Capital at night.
All in all, the legal status of photography is fuzzy gray at best. As I said at the top, there is no federal statute yet. Until somebody with enough fortitude and money is willing to get arrested and push it to the federal courts, there will be no definitive answer for everybody.

P&s vs DSLRs Pt 3 The intangibles

The last time I discussed this (Jan 22) I focused mainly on technical differences. But over the last few days I have made some observations I want to pass along. Part of the difference between the two are intangible things.

Handling: The other day as I came in I needed to make a quick pit stop. As I went into the bathroom, I simply placed my P&S down on the sink, lens down. I then realized, I would never have done that no matter what with my DSLR. It isn't just a matter of the cost of the equipment. It is also a mental thing, The DSLR is the "good" camera. The point and shoot takes great pictures but still it isn't my DSLR.
    I realized the other day when I came in the house, I had tossed the P&S on the bed. Again, I never would have done that with my DSLR.

Cleaning: I reach for a clean T-shirt to wipe the lens of my P&S, on my DSLR I use a microfiber cloth that is stored in a clean place. (No I would never use a Kleenex or napkin on either camera. That ruins any glass over time, eyeglasses included.) I put my P&S in my coat pocket (with all the crumbs and stuff down there.) but I do keep it in a case to help keep it clean. My DSLR I on me or in the bag and I keep the bag clean.

Do I sound like I don't like my P&S? No, I love it. I was able to easily take some movies of my father -in-law while I was down there. It is easier to have all the time and I can take shots I couldn't take (or wouldn't try to take with my DSLR). Here is one I took of my rental car for my Proj 365 photos while my wife's car was in the shop. Warning! Do not try to take a shot like this Leave this to professional idiots (photographers) . This was dumb trying to get the shot. It is difficult to hold the wheel, hold and aim the camera, keep the car in the lane, etc. and oh yeah, focus the camera.

Here is one I wanted to get of the snow on the side of the road as I passed by Fayetteville and Lumberton NC  on my way to Georgia on Jan 16th. The snow was all gone up in the Raleigh - Rocky Mount area but was still there in spots further south. Again, this was dumb trying to shoot while driving alone. And I got it as a movie also!

The Time Required for Photos

Time is a critical thing in photography. Not only how long the shutter is open or what time of day the photo is taken (Yes, it matters) but how long photograph takes to produce. It used to be that time was how long it took you to take the film to the photo lab and for them to process it. Now it is how long it takes to process in Photoshop, Lightroom, NX Capture, or whatever you use to process the photo. The speed of the computer processor will have an impact on this but one of the main things that impacts your time is how many photos you took and how you prioritize them (in taking them and in processing them).
   
In the old days, you had 36 photos on a roll of 36 exposure film (maybe 37 if you were lucky). Now you can take hundreds and thousands of photos with a digital camera. Hey, it doesn't cost anything? Sadly, yes it does. It costs on the wear and tear of the camera. (My D300 shutter is rated for 150,000 clicks) and it costs time to process them. If you take 5 or 6 of everything (just in case) you are killing yourself on time management. You have to prioritize as you take the photos. Experience helps here greatly which is why you need to keep shooting all the time.
    
BUT This doesn't mean to take only one shot of a setting. If you are a long ways away (in either time or distance) and may never get back except at great expense, take some extra shots at various setting. I worked on a year round set of photos for a particular scene and later thought I would go back and reshoot the fall scene. The colors were not as bright the following year and I don't know if I will be able to go there the next fall.
    
When I started, I uploaded everything (Use a card reader instead of loading from the camera, it saves the drain on your camera battery). and then processed everything and eliminated the worst. That took TIME and it filed my external drives as I shoot RAW instead of JPEG (larger files but more flexible to work with).
    
My next stage was to load everything and then eliminate the worst (will come back to further eliminate others later - yeah, right).
    
Now I have gotten to the point I can limit the number of shots and can tell pretty much what has potential and if I want to work with it or not so now I pick and choose as I import from the memory card to the computer. Things are going a lot quicker. Do I always do this? No. For family shots and all I still upload everything and then choose what is workable and what to toss BEFORE I actually work on any photos.
    
If you are just starting out, don't fret, it takes time to learn "see" how a photo will come out and if it has potential. It also takes time to see how much time it takes to process a photo with your software. Try to only take the shots you need. Only load the ones with potential. As you gain experience with your equipment, you will not have to take as many shots to get "the good one".

Point & Shoots vs SDLRs The Equipment

Pt 2 OK, in the previous post, the odd number photos were taken with the Nikon D300 and the even numbered shots were with the Canon SX 219 IS Point and Shoot (P&S). Is there a difference? Yep, but like I said, it is primarily due to the differences in post processing. With some extra effort the could be matched more precisely. BUT my point is that both cameras produced very good photos. And I still prefer my Nikon DSLR over the P&S, but the both have advantages and there are times I prefer the P&S.

So what are the differences? Beyond the obvious ability to change lenses. (I will probably have to extend this over several posts)
1) Ergonomics. The Images Doctors (Rick Walker and Jason ODell - great resource, google Image Doctors) recently had a podcast and the comment was made to the effect that the larger heavier cameras are easier to stabilize and shoot with; and I agree (but you can get too heavy). The Canon P&S has Image Stabilization (compensates for shaky hands, NOT subject movement or gross camera movement). but when I extended the lens to its full out zoom (386 mm IIRC) it usually required I prop it against something or get a tripod. A tripod for that little camera looks crazy but it is necessary. -- On the other hand, I find the Nikon D300 much easier to brace and stabilize using proper techniques (No elbows sticking out but rather tucked in.) even using an 80-200 mm f/2.8w/o VR (Vibration Reduction). The 80-200 is a big heavy lens but not the most by any stretch).  VR is Nikons name for the same thing as Canon Image stabilization. I.E. VR = IS.
  -- Even with IS, the P&S is difficult to stabilize at times.

2) Quality of sensor. There are basically three sizes of sensors out there. (A) Newer DSLRs like the Nikon D3 and D700 have a full size sensor, approximately the size of of the 35 mm film size.  (I would name a Canon model but there numbering system is worse than Nikons if that is possible, its all a matter of what you are used to really. Canon folks have difficulty figuring out the Nikon numbering system.) (B) Most other DSLRs which have a smaller sensor called APS-C. (C) Point and Shoots which have an even smaller sensor. No, I don't know the name for that size.
 - The result is that if a full size, a regular DSLR, and a P&S all have 12 Mega Pixels (MP), they don't have the same quality. Imagine a sensor with four rectangular pixels. Around the edge will be a little bit of "noise". Now have the same size sensor but with 8 MP instead. You have the same area of image capture and more resolution to differentiate with but also you have more noise. The end result is that a P&S with 14MP will not have the same quality image as a DSLR with 14 MP because the P&S has a very small sensor and thus will have a lot of noise since the pixels are smaller and the noise represents a greater percentage of the sensor size.
  -- The impact here will be noticed in the size of the print. If you are shooting for the web or 8x10s, a good P&S will be just fine. If you want to shot large shots (most folks don't) it may become a factor.

3) Portability: Here the P&S wins hands down. When my old P&S died, I missed having something in the console of my vehicle to capture those spur of the moment shots. I have some great snow shots that if I hadn't had the P&S, I wouldn't have captured the image. Even the smallest kits for a DSLR are a littel too awkward or large to carry on a day to day basis. That and the cost of having a DSLR kit even in the truck of the vehicle is not something most want to risk.

4) Interface: The DSLR has an optical viewfinder to look through. Most view about 97% of the actual image. I believe the D300 is rated at 100%. Most P&Ss don't have an optical viewfinder but rather rely on the LCD screen on the back. Viewing the screen can be an advantage when working at awkward angles but generally they result in the photog holding the camera in front of themselves several inches in front of their eye and the camera is not stabilized. Also, the glare of bright sunlight can make the LCD viewfinder also unusable. At times I have had to take the shot and hope I got what I wanted.

5) Interface again: Most DSLRs have major selection controls (such as white balance, ISO, etc) built around the camera body. Most P&Ss require you drill through layers of menu selections. (But DSLRs can have several layers of menus to work though also, but the major controls are readily accessible). a quick example. The White Balance and ISO controls are right on top, a quick reach and a spin of the dial and they are set. On my P&S, you have to select one of three buttons (hopefully the correct one), push it, turn the dial, select the setting, push the button again. you will know what this is when you try it in practice.

6) Features: P&Ss used to lag behind DSLRs but now they seem to lead the way in innovation. P&Ss had the ability to shoot movies before DSLRs. (the D300 is currently the top of the line APS sensor DSLR for Nikon. My D300 doesn't have a movie option, the D300s does.) My Canon P&S has an option for a fisheye lens effect. I can't afford a fisheye lens for my Nikon. And now that my Canon P&S had it, I imagine it will serve my needs. If I find a really need a DSLR fisheye, I will rent one, but for now, the P&S serves my needs.

7) Batteries: Most all digital cameras use proprietary batteries. It used to be P&Ss used AAs or AAAs,but now the trend seems to be to use proprietary batteries. The companies make more money that way. A WORD OF WARNING - DO NOT buy off brand batteries, at least for DSLRs. This is the voice of experience. I bought a back up battery for my D300 from an E-Bay vendor in hong Kong. The battery worked until I tired to charge it and it wouldn't recharge. I thought it might just not be showing the charge but it kept getting lower and lower. The cost of returning the battery almost made it not worth it to return. I got my money back and bought a Nikon battery. Most DSLR users buy brand name batteries. It doesn't make sense to spend the money you spend and then trust a cheap battery when you need it.
  -- BUT on my P&S I took a chance and bought a non-Canon battery from Adorama (great place to shop - I'll discuss shopping in another post). The battery was significantly less than the Canon version and it works fine. for a backup on a P&S, it is great.

Bottom Line - It sounds like a like my DSLR more and don't care about my P&S. Yep and Nope. I do prefer my DSLR but I love my P&S. The portability an features on it make it an invaluable tool in my photography kit. Sometimes you need a hammer and sometimes you need a screwdriver. (I can't resist - Sometimes you feel like a nut, sometimes you don't Almond Joys have nuts, Mounds don't!)

In the end, it doesn't matter what brand you have or if it is a DSLR or a P&S, the camera you are comfortable with and love using is the camera for you. It isn't the equipment, its the skill of he photographer.

Point & Shoots vs DSLRs Pt 1 The Photos

I went home to Georgia last Sunday to see my father in law, pop, a truly amazing person. For one story about him, go to my project 365  http://hldphotosproj365.blogspot.com/2011/01/jan-17th_21.html to see a story about him.

But now, let me show you some photos I made on the trip. Some were made with my Nikon D300 using a 17-55 mm f/2.8 lens. Others were made using a Canon SX 210 IS Point and Shoot (P&S). The Nikon has 13 megapixels, the Canon has 14 but not all pixels are equal as the saying goes. but more on that in following posts. For now, let's just look at the photos for now.

Not a lot of difference. In fact the differences are more from the individual psot processing in Lightroom 2 than the camera. There were differences in the initial photos between the two cameras but careful adjustment can make them nearly the same. (depending upon how badly you want them to match). I shot the Nikon in RAW format, the Canon P&S only shoot jpeg. I shot the Nikon in aperture priority and left the P&S in Program mode. The Nikon was set to ISO 400 and the Canon to 200 (no particular reason) other than to see how the Canon did at lower ISO. I used ISO 400 on the Nikon to obtain faster shutter speed to counteract any hand shake.  I didn't worry about the white balance on the Nikon as I was shooting RAW format while the Canon jpegs where shot using auto white balance. Generally speaking, Auto White Balance works well outside in sunlight but not so well inside. (I suspect part of the issue is that inside you may have a mixture of light (tungsten, sunlight, and fluorescent). The issue with setting the white balance manually (even using Photoshop's eyedropper methods) is what is the "right color" temperature? Aahhh, the joys of digital photography (Film had these issues also but not as obviously to most as with digital's instant feedback on the LCD viewer.

 

Project 365 underway.

Well, I finally got started on Project 365 the other day. Basically it is a project for each person to take a photo each day for a year forming a basis of what their life is about. Do a google search for details from any of a dozen sites.

To keep this blog for discussing photography, I created a second blog at http://hldphotosproj365.blogspot.com/

As I just got a new Point and Shoot for Christmas (Thanks kids) I am trying to use it primarily instead of my Nikon D300 DSLR. Some of the things I have learned:
1) after you get used to a DSLR, the shutter lag of a P&S is VERY noticeable.
2) Knowing the camera is important. When you are trying to get the shot is no time to have to learn how to do it.
3) Yes there is a difference in snapshots and photographs.

A photo from Jan 12th The shot looks easy but what you don't see is the time spent at 38 degrees with a wind chill that had to be in the upper twenties at best. I read of a photographer that sat in a African river for 2 hours to get a shot of lions drinking at the river bank. He couldn't get the shot any other way.

Also, so say that inexperience shooters take hundreds of shots hoping a few come out good. Maybe so but it also takes a lot of shots to get the one you want, especially when the subject is moving in a non-predictable manner.

The best thing I can say to anybody is if you or your spouse like the shot, then smile and enjoy it. There are too many that will find technical fault or room for improvement as the saying does.

Have fun with whatever camera you use. The main thing is to use it.

Life has been busy.

Time slips away and suddenly you realize its been too long. Well, enough, a few thoughts as we go into the new year.

1) Read an interesting post in Strobist (an excellent site on photography lighting and photography in general). The post is to the effect Forget the Critics - Enjoy what you do. (Not quite in those delicate terms.) And they are correct; one judge may love it and the next hate it. I have had several prints that my wife loves but the "judges" didn't. Who is to say my wife (or anybody is wrong). The bottom line is somebody likes it, enjoy it. Its great to receive constructive criticism and to have things to reflect on and consider if they are valid and could possibly make a better photograph but in the end, if the client or recipient of your work likes it, its good.

https://mail.google.com/mail/?shva=1#inbox/12d711e26982ba69

2) I found out about a project called "Project 365". Basically you take a photo everyday,maybe more than one but at least one a day. At the end of the year you have a journal of your life and you have had a year to grow as a photographer. I will post the photos periodically.
http://content.photojojo.com/tutorials/project-365-take-a-photo-a-day/

3) My laptop of 7+ years died suddenly on Jan 2nd  (The logic board that failed). As I struggled with no computer and all my prints trapped on external hard drives (luckily I kept good backups) that were formatted in Apple format and my old Windows machine couldn't read, I had time to reflect on how computers have impacted my life, not always positively. I realized the amount of time I spent on computer instead of being outside or doing something. I saw how much stress they introduces as I tracked tons of email a day. Suddenly I couldn't read then and I saw how unimportant they were.

I now have my son's old iMac running for most work and the old Windows laptop for Photoshop CS5. But I will not be spending as much time on computers. (Yeah, right)
(BTW, Apple computers can read Windows format but Windows cannot read Apple format.)

KEEP GOOD BACKUPS. I lost everything after Nov 12th 2010 until Jan 3rd (except my photos on external hard drives.) I may be able to recover the hard drive info from the Apple laptop.

Published in Cary Today magazine!!

The Raleigh News & Observer newspaper had requested photos of Cary for their upcoming Cary Today magazine. It's a magazine insert appearing only in subscribers papers, not in the newsstand papers. I submitted a batch of low resolution photos (easier to email and load). They contacted me and asked for some of the photos in high quality which I submitted. They used 6 of my photos for a half page spread on page 15! Yeah! 

Here is the link to Cary Today on line.

Link to page 15: http://ads.carynews.com/SS/Page.aspx?sstarg&facing=false&secid=86494&pagenum=15

Link to the Cary Today magazine:http://ads.carynews.com/SS/Tiles.aspx

The photos are from the Kelby Worldwide Photo walk in 2009 that I went on in Cary. Glad I kept them. You can see all of the Cary photos at my website www.hldphotos.com, go to the projects gallery.

Happy Fourth of July

Just a quick post to share some of the flag photos I have been collecting.

This one really kicked off my collection as I kept going past this one in Raleigh NC and I kept thinking that would make a good picture. Finally it hit me like Homer, "Duh - Go take the picture!" so I did and that stated me collecting flag photos.




Here's one of the national flag and the Georgia flag.

I found this one while working on another project. The house was completely burnt up but the flag survived. There was virtually nothing else left except for a few small odds and ends.

It spoke to me of how our flag survives through it all. Thought it would be appropriate for the fourth of July.

Special Olympics of North Carolina 2010 My MVP Pick

I was part of a group of photographers shooting the 2010 Special Olympics of North Carolina (SONC). All I can say is WOW! If you have never been to a Special Olympics event, you need to go. they had golf, softball (the two events I shot), aquatics, and a bunch more. It was something else to watch the athletes (and they truly are) pour their hearts into these games.

All of them were truly amazing but there was one that really touched my heart. this girl hit the softball and it was a bunt and landed right in front of her. She hesitated for a second and then the coach was yelling "Run!". She took off.

The catcher threw the ball to first but they missed it and she poured on the steam and took off for second and then Third.

When she gets there, she squats down and holds her side/hip/leg.














She is hurting. Her parents were directly behind me and I heard them say something about she had hurt a muscle. BUT she doesn't come off third base. She STAYS! I went to the side of home plate and lined up to see her come in.

When the next batter hits the ball, she if off and running like a pro. Whatever pain there is, for now all that matters is the running.

But when she crossed home plate and one more step, her face shows the pain!











Talk about seeing a great player. The entire game was great but her run to home made her my personal MVP pick.

If you want to see some amazing sports, go watch the Special Olympics next time.

Photos of the Golf games can be seen here http://www.hldphotos.com/Galleries/Sports/SONC2010GolfFull/12513813_xfZbss#!i=901634406&k=7w3Qr

Photos of the Softball games can be seen here http://www.hldphotos.com/Galleries/Sports/Special-Olympics-of-NC-2010/23622648_D8mdg6#!i=1911413199&k=hLbM9gG

SONC Photos can be seen here http://www.sonc.net/news/photo_galleries.asp

Light Painting

I was photographing some old structures in North Carolina and I was having trouble with overall lighting inside some of the barns. The flash was overpowering the closer structures and leaving the rest too dark and I only had one flash unit, an SB-800 (all I have). I tried flash off camera but I had trouble securing it and even when I did, the lighting wasn't correct. I found that with no flash, even at f/2.8, sometimes it wouldn't work as there was too little light leaking in through the cracks in the roof and walls, etc. 

No flash, 2 sec exposure at f/4.5 ISO 200 20mm I could not even see this through the viewfinder. 


Next I tried the flash. but the nearby structures were over exposed and the rest underexposed. I know I can work it in Lightroom2 but there is only so much you can do and I would rather get the picture right without a lot of post production. 

Flash, 2 sec expsoure at f/4.5 ISO 200 20mm Stick is overexposed, the rest underexposed. 


What to do? I decided to get creative and try something, Light Painting. Have heard others talk about it and I have read about it so why not try it? Took my flash off the camera and located the "Modeling Light Illuminator Button" that fires the flash repeatedly for a short duration. Opened the shutter up some more and when I clicked the shutter, I waved the flash around, trying to expose the darker areas and not too much on the close up structures. 

Modeling Flash, 5 sec exposure at f/5.6 ISO 200 20mm.


Sometimes I didn't get the light moved around evenly. 

You may wonder, What happens if you get in front of the lens or you move too slowly so that your and/or the flash are in the picture too long. Here is the answer. Note the red light is from the back of my flash unit. 

Modeling Flash, 5 sec exposure at f/5.6 ISO 200 20mm. I aimed the flash at the lower stick too long and the Flash red light shows in the picture. 


I had heard of light painting and read of it and seen photos of it but had never done it. But the situation I was dealing with was similar so I figured it was worth a try. Its another tool to try when you need a rabbit our of the hat so to speak. Try is sometimes just for the fun of it. 

Let somebody know where you are - EXACTLY

I have been working on a project photographing old structures in North Carolina project. Learning a lot along the way. 

One thing is to always let somebody know EXACTLY where you are. 

Background: after herniating a disk in my back, I still sometimes get a little buzz in my left leg. Sometimes I think it is my cell phone on vibrate. I check and its not. Also, some of the barn owners have told me to be careful of snakes, sometimes they are up in the top. 

So I am out in the tall grass shooting a barn door. I am in sight of Hwy 64 but you wouldn't see me from the road or know how to get to where I was. All of a sudden, as I kneel in the grass, I swear I feel something touch my RIGHT leg at the knee. Sort of like when a fish bumps you in the lake. WHOOP, I go straight up, forget the camera, waving my hat (don't know what good that did other than scare the birds)!

First thing comes to my feeble mind is snake! Spent five minutes carefully looking around. Nothing. What was it? Don't know but I realized that if I had gotten hurt there or in the structures, nobody would have know where to look. 

Photographers are known to do crazy things to "get the shot" guess I fit right in. Know of one who sat in an African river for hours to get a shot of lions drinking at the bank. Wonder if he thought about the snakes etc in the river? Will save the story of my getting the shot on the side of highway with tractor trailers blowing by (shaking me and my tripod) for another day. 

Here is the shot I was getting at the time. You can tell the grass is pretty tall. Good place for snakes (and crazy photographers). 

Comments on Buying a Digital Camera - A Primer Lenses

From My friend, 

Hey Lee! Thanks ever so much for the info. I am still processing through it all. I am working on visiting the sites.
Here is what I know...
1. I have a little point and shoot. It's good for inside, close up, medium light shots. I think what I am looking for is a DSLR. And digital. 2. I do not want video on the camera. I just want pictures. 3. I have heard good things about Nikon. Now I think it's up to finding something that is quality but inexpensive. I'm thinking in the $300 range. That probably is a little low. I will keep researching and looking. If you come up with any wisdom, etc. let me know. Oh what fun. Do you have a webpage that would be a walk through on good pictures. I can at least start up on my point and shoot... I want something that would make sharp pictures of people outside mostly. We have such a wide variety of people but either the sun is too bright, or it just isn't clear with my point and shoot. Thanks!

From Lee:
1. Yeah, digital is the way to go. BTW Prepare for your hard drive to fill up quickly unless you shoot JPEG. Shooting Raw takes up more space but is more adjustable once the photo is taken. I started shooting JPEG but went to Raw.
2. I'm not a big fan of video and SLR combined, at least at the moment. It is still in its infancy and a lot of changes will come. For now I will keep two separate cameras.
3. Like I said, Nikon and Canon are both excellent. One thing that influenced me to go Nikon was the private forum at www.Nikonians.org . It is the Smithsonian of Nikon knowledge and only costs about $30 a year (first 30 days free). I tell people at work that if there is a question you can’t get answered at Nikonians, I want to see it. Unfortunately, I know of no such site for Canon people.
$300 is a little low for a DSLR. The Nikon D3000 here http://www.adorama.com/INKD3000K.html is $496. A good deal is here http://www.adorama.com/INKD3000K.html#kits for the $539 kit which is now at $513. It includes a spare camera battery (you will want one) and a 4GB memory cards) and a camera case.
I did not mention the refurbished kits offered. They are out there but for a beginner, a new kit is what I would recommend.

The 18-55 lens with the Nikon D3000 is a good overall lens. It will zoom out for scenic or group shots and zoom in a little for tighter shots (See below about what 50mm produces on a camera. Basically on a DLSR 35 is normal view.)

“Do you have a webpage that would be a walk through on good pictures. “ Unfortunately no but this conversation (edited would be a great thing for my website / blog) What you are getting is basically the benefit of all my research at tons of places. The links I mentioned previously are the best to start at.

A primer discussion of lenses:

The 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G ED AF-S DX VR Lens means it goes from 18mm (WIDE angle, lots of picture) to 55mm, closer up image. A quick lesson in digital cameras. Most DSLRs, Nikon and Canon included, both have what is called a crop factor of 1.5. What that means is that when a regular film camera is at 50mm (considered normal size, what you see with the eye image), the DSLR photo will appear to be at 75mm or 50% closer. This is great for getting zoomed in on those far away images. My D300 with a 200mm records an image as if it were 300mm with a film camera. BUT downside is that when you try to get a wide-angle photo the 18mm setting on the lens produces an image that will be as if it was 27mm on a film camera.

Solution? Buy one of the new “full frame” sensor cameras (all of this is due to the size of the sensor in the camera. A full frame sensor camera will give an 18mm image when the lens is at 18mm BUT it will only give a 200mm image when the lens is set to 200mm. ALSO Full frame sensor cameras are VERY expensive. A lot of pros have not gone to them. Some like the smaller, lighter cameras. I plan to stick with my D300 for quite a while.

The G means you don’t set the aperture on the lens, but with the camera.) AF-S is autofocus. DX means is it a lens not designed for a full frame sensor DSLR but one of the cameras with a crop factor. (See below for explanation). FX means the lens is designed for a Full frame sensor. A DX lens will work on a FX camera but the camera will automatically change to DX mode. At the moment, most DSLRs are DX. VR means it has vibration reduction. The bad news – Every manufacturer has their own set of acronyms for DX vs FX and all the other things. It isn’t just Nikon and Canon but other lens companies like Sigma and Tamron.

What does the f/3.5-5.6 mean? The aperture is how big the lens is open. More open = more light coming in. Now for the challenging part. F-stops (aperture settings) work like fractions. 1/2 is twice as big as 1/4. 1/32 is tiny. The f-stop or aperture is the focal length (f) divided by (the /) the aperture opening. The f/3.5 –5.6 means when you are at 18mm (zoomed back for a lot of image) you can get more light in. The most light you will be able to let in will be at f/3.5 with the lens discussed.

When you zoom in to the 55mm (for the lens we were discussing) you can only get f/5.6 at best, which means less light. You can always set the aperture to a smaller opening (bigger number) like 8 or 11 to adjust for the light. The best thing to do is play with it and you will see. Most standard zoom lenses are 3.5 – 5.6.

If you see a lens like 17-55mm f/2.8; that means you can open it up a lot (the 2.8 part). The lack of a second number means it can stay at f/2.8 no matter where the lens is set, zoomed in or zoomed out. These lenses cost more (lots). You don’t need them.

As long as I am at it, you will hear people talk about “prime lenses”. A prime lens is a lens that doesn’t zoom in and out. It is “fixed” at a certain focal length like 50mm. They don’t zoom. Common primes are 35mm, 50mm, and 85mm. (There are others but these are common ones). A 35mm f/1.4 lens (shoots like a normal 50mm lens on a film or full frame DSLR – remember the multiplication factor 35 x 1.5 ~ 50) lets tons of light in. Great for low lighting. Very expensive.

One last point and I will close for today. When you adjust a lens to 3.5 instead of 8 or 11 lets say, the depth of field get shallow. What that means is that the person you are photographing will be in focus and the background will be out of focus. Some people love that. The closer you get to the person, the more behind them will be out of focus or soft and blurry. If you photograph a person 25 ft in front of you, not much will be out of focus behind them. Photographing at f/11 generally puts the background in focus.

A great book to read is Scott Kelby’s Digital Photography. There are three volumes. The first volume is a great reference for starting equipment. He gives three ranges of equipment – low price, medium price, and what budget price!

Oh, one last thing wikipedia defines NAS as Nikon Acquistion Syndrome. I am sure there is a Canon equivalent. How many lenses do you need? Just one more!

Comments on Buying a Digital Camera

A friend emailed me about getting a new camera and during the discussion he asked if I had this stuff on a website. I didn’t but realized it wouldn’t be bad to use our conversations as a basis for others looking to get a digital camera. I have edited the emails to make them applicable to all and to not reveal unnecessary personal information.


EMAIL THAT STARTED IT ALL


Hey Lee, I wanted to connect with you about a good camera. I am using an old one and to be honest with you, I have lost some great pictures because of it. I am working in islands (and some other travels) this summer and would like to get some good photos. What is out there that is good but not too expensive. Also, do you have anything that you have upgraded from that would be a good general camera? I know that is general, but I'm not sure what to ask.... Also, does anybody rent out cameras? just wondering...


Thanks!

******
From Me:
1) Let me ask, do you want film or digital? I will assume digital as film is all but dead to consumers. (I met a PhD microbiologist who shoots the bellows type black and white film. WOW! Great photographer.)
2) Why did you lose those good photos? Did the situation out do the limits of the camera? (I tried to take low light photos of my daughter’s graduation with a digital point and shoot and it didn’t come out very well.) If that is the case, what situations are you needing a change for? (Low light? Fast moving? Etc.)
3) The next basic decision in getting a digital camera is do you want a Point and Shoot (P&S) or a DSLR (detachable lenses is the main distinguishing feature). The Pros of a P&S, esy to carry. Convenient. In an informal survey of camera people on the Nikonians.org forum (great place) somebody asked who carries their DSLR with them all the time in the car, etc. Few do. The equipment is expensive and it isn’t practical to carry all your lenses etc. Many carry a Point & Shoot (I did until it died) in the car. Cons: With a P&S, once you buy it, you have what it is. You can’t change lenses etc.

With a DSLR, you can change lenses to meet needs. BUT there is one a problem to deal with – dust. Film didn’t have this problem as if dust got one the film (unlikely) you advanced to the next frame and voila, the dust was gone. With a P&S, the camera sensor is not exposed to dust (99% of the time) and dust isn’t a problem. With a DSLR, every time you change lenses, there is the risk of dust getting inside on the sensor. The environment is a factor here. Pointing the camera down when changing is the primary thing you can do to help prevent this. You spot dust in the pictures as little blobs or circles usually. Some cameras have a self-cleaning feature that vibrates the dust off onto a sticky pad to catch it. This doesn’t always work. Sometimes you have to let a pro do it. (I wouldn’t try it myself).
Also, some DSLR come with body only and you have to buy the lenses. Others come as a “kit” with some good starter lenses. (How many lenses do you need? Just one more!! LOL )
That said, a DSLR offers the greatest flexibility for meeting needs in the future.
4) If a DSLR, do you want video also? I would rather have two separate cameras, still and video, but it is handy to have it in one camera BUT the video will fill the memory card quick and most camera only allow a few minutes of filming, sort of like the old 3 minute Super 8 cameras.
5) Brands – Nikon (yea, the force is with us) and Canon (the Dark side) have about 85% of the market. Both are excellent. When I got my DSLR, I evaluated everything and Nikon was better in some ways and Canon in others. I eventually went with Nikon, as I have always wanted a Nikon.
One important thing is ergonomics or the fit of it in your hands and the control layout. You probably won’t appreciate the layout until you have used it a while but the fit is important. The Canon Rebel series initially drew a lot of comments of how tight it was around the left hand grip for men with bigger hands.
One feature on both Nikon and Canon is that they build the Vibration Reduction /Image Stabilization (called IS for Canon, VR for Nikon) into the lens. VR adjusts for slight hand movement/shake allowing the image to be in focus and sharp instead of blurry. This makes each lens with this feature (You can get lenses without it). Other companies incorporate the VR/IS into the camera body making lenses cheaper and the VR/IS works with any lens. BUT you can’t see the effect in the viewfinder, you have to trust is working.
P&S cameras have VR/IS but not all do it by eliminating shake. Some simply increase the shutter speed, which works but as the light gets low, a quick shutter speed can make the picture too dark. And sometimes you want a slow shutter speed (all those foamy rivers and waterfall shots are taken with slow shutter speed.)

6) Where to buy. Simplest part www.Adorama.com or www.bhphotovideo.com. That’s it. These two are the most trusted and best prices. Are there cheaper? Yes but these two have earned their reputation. Famed photographer Scott Kelby among others recommends them. <Hours of operation corrected.> Adorama is open for Phone Orders Mon - Thurs 9AM to 7:30PM EST; Friday 9AM to 1:30PM EST; and Sunday 9:30AM - 5PM EST. In person orders are the same. EST as you are in New York. The website never actually closes because they don't make a charge until an order actually ships, they can keep the site open throughout the Jewish Sabbath and Festival days. (A tip of the camera cap to Helen for letting me know the correct hours). I have used them and they are great. There are others that are also excellent. But is price is too good to be true, run away.

** A note: If you walk into your local camera store and demo the products and chew up their time, don’t turn and buy everything from an on-line store. At least make part of your purchases at the brick and mortar store. Also it always helps to have a friendly liver person to chat with. They will learn who comes in, takes up their time and advice and never buys. 

7) Now, what would I recommend (not having heard what your needs and situations are). First I would guess a good point and shoot since you mention traveling a lot. They are smaller, less conspicuous, and today are very good. My daughter was talking about wanting a DSLR for Christmas but when I found out all she wanted was close up work for posting online, I bought her a Canon (somebody please forgive me) Powershot SX10 IS camera. (Note the IS there) IT can focus to within 2 mm of the target!! That is better than I can do unless I spend a lot on some expensive lenses. Cost was about $335. That is probably NOT what you need.


Check out this site for some good recommendations

http://www.imaging-resource.com/  

http://www.imaging-resource.com/WB/WB.HTM

For a P&S camera (as of March 26, 2010)


Canon PowerShot SX20 IS Canon // PowerShot SX200 IS Digital Camera Kit, Blue with 8GB SD Memory Card Adoarama kit includes memory card. (BTW, the kit comes in other colors but I picked blue, also comes in red or black.)


http://www.adorama.com/ICASX200BLH.html $50 rebate puts at $279


Review here http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/SX20IS/SX20ISA.HTM 

Or a

Canon PowerShot SX120 IS // Canon Powershot SX120 IS Digital Camera Kit, with 4GB SD Memory Card http://www.adorama.com/ICASX120KH.html $229 with $30 rebate = $199
Review here http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/SX120IS/SX120ISA.HTM
Or a
Canon PowerShot SX210IS // Canon PowerShot SX210 IS Digital Camera with 14.1 Megapixel, HD720p, Dynamic IS, Miniture Effect, Smart Suffle - Black - U.S.A. Warranty $349
http://www.adorama.com/ICASX210BK.html
Review here http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/SX210IS/SX210ISA.HTM

Nikon Coolpix cameras are good also but Canon seems to be the preferred choice in P&Ss.

For a DSLR I would look at:

Nikon D3000 10.2 MP DSLR Camera with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G ED AF-S DX VR Lens - USA Warranty (That USA part is important. Grey market or out or country cameras are not covered in the states. Don’t know about where you are.) $496.95 (includes a lens with VR!)
http://www.adorama.com/INKD3000K.html

or a

Nikon D5000 DX-Format 12.3 Megapixel Digital SLR Camera Body with 720p HD Movie Mode and 2.7" Vari-angle LCD $524.95
http://www.adorama.com/INKD5000.html 

or a Canon EOS Rebel XS Digital SLR Camera, 10.1 Megapixel, 2.5-inch LCD Monitor, with 18-55mm Lens – Black (I prefer the black body as the silver attracts attention, and I think it looks better). $499
http://www.adorama.com/ICADRXSKB.html 
IMPORTANT. You will also need: At least one memory card. 4 – 8 GB ought to be good. SanDisk is a good brand name. Watch for rebates. I picked up 3 16 GB cards for $15 each after rebate (they cost $115 list !!!)

You will also need batteries. DSLRs are use proprietary batteries. (Don’t get off brand here, I tried something other than a Nikon battery and had problems) Most P&S use AAA. I recommend Sanyo Long Life Eneloop batteries. You can charge them and sit them on the shelf and they will have 80% charge a year later (or something like that).

And a camera bag.

Well, I guess I have overwhelmed you with info and choices. Don’t blame me for setting you one the never ending road of getting “that one perfect shot”. Seriously, remember, the photographer is far more important then the equipment for getting that shot.

Oh, you asked if there was anything I have upgraded from. My Digital P&S died last November (hints at Christmas didn’t help, still need to replace.) and my previous camera was a Minolta 35mm film.

Hope some of this helps

Lee
leedawson@Gmail.com www.HLDPhotos.com  
www.HLDPhotos.blogspot.com 

Some sites you may want to look at.
http://www.nikonians.org 


http://www.bythom.com/  
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Ridgefield-CT/Joe-McNally-Photography/194586413405  
http://www.joemcnally.com/blog/  
http://www.facebook.com/moose.peterson?ref=nf  
http://moosepeterson.com/blog/?p=14005  
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Luminescence-of-Nature-Press/61618441022 

Big Brother Big Sister Fund Raiser Photo Shoot

I received a request for photographers to shoot the Big Brother Big Sister fund raiser at the bowling alley across the street from North Carolina State University.



Another photographer, Sterling E Stevens (www.sestevens.com)   and I were selected to do the shoot. Sterling is an architectural photographer (not many in that field) and a great person. He does great photography. You can see his work at http://www.sestevens.com/ and his Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/pages/Sterling-E-Stevens-Photographer/74698440746

The bowlers were both adults and kids. It was a fantastic experience, I loved photographing the kids and then showing them their picture on the back of the camera. Photography wise, it was a challenge as the bowlers were moving from dark lighting to incandescent lighting to fluorescent lighting with the corresponding change in color balance as they moved.

The kids were the stars of the show. Here are a few of the shots. Go to  www.hldphotos.com/Galleries/Projects  for more of the photos. (You can click on a photo here and it will take you back to the photo on the website.)



 

 STRIKE !!!!

Plans for 2010

For the upcoming year, I am developing a new project. As I go to work in Raleigh I have continually noticed various old Tobacco barns on the way. Some are in good condition and some are falling down. I have begun the work of securing permission to photograph and publish these barns. One person I talked to took me inside and explained all about the "Tear Pole" and the "Sticks" and how the leaves would get dry and after curing them, they would have to put them in a pit to moisten them so they can me handled to put into storage.

It is a fascinating process. Tobacco barns are not being built much anymore and the ones left are continuing to deteriorate so it seemed like a good project to take on. Not sure where it will lead. Maybe a calendar. of Tobacco Barns of North Carolina?

Also, last fall (09)
I took some landscape photographs of a railroad track, near my house, that was lined by trees in their fall colors. (my wife Kathy actually spotted it and came up with the idea) With the recent snowfall, I went out again to photography it in the snow. At this point I will try to go back in the spring and the summer and photography it again with its seasonal variations.

*****

For those of you who sometimes wonder how to get those great shots when there is nothing in your neighborhood, the photos are there. Look at your area as a visitor would see it. People in Washington NC (near the ocean) probably don't even think of the boats lined up there and some of the other scenery but visitors love to photograph the area. My point is, go out and look like a visitor. Remember some of what you noticed when you first got to the area you live in. The photos are there.

Persevation North Carolina (PNC) Photo Winner!!

Great news! Last December It was announced I was one of the winners of the Preservation North Carolina Historic Oakwood Community Photo Contest winners!! I just received an email form a fellow Capital City Camera Club member concerning the contest. The photos are now on line at their site.

Go the link below and click on the top image of a white house (The Tucker House). the slide show will start and my photo of the Governor's mansion is the second image. I started the year winning an open competition in the Black and White Category and finished it with the Oakwood Historic Community award.

http://www.presnc.org/Features/Oakwood-Images 


Email:

Dick,
Tonight I got the latest edition of Preservation North Carolina's online newsletter.  The newsletter features articles and links showing recent work by Capital City Camera Club volunteers.  PNC is now linking their text to flickr slide shows.  The first link below has two flickr slide shows with about 50 photos taken by Club volunteers including David Strevel, Luis Toledo, Alan Neifeld, Steve Rubin, and Lee Dawson.  This includes the winning shots in the Historic Oakwood Photo Contest and many of the Tour Day photos.
The second link is for a historic house (910 Harvey Street) here in Raleigh photographed by David Strevel and Lee Wald.  The third link is the home page for Preservation North Carolina where several different pages include photos from our Club volunteers including Swamplawn in eastern North Carolina by Dick Cicone and John Schwaller.  The flickr shows will display in a small window or the "expansion" control will show the photos full-screen.
http://www.presnc.org/Features/Oakwood-Images